Church of Zoodochos Pigi
The main church of Megalochori, built in the nineteenth century. It stands out for its carved wooden iconostasis and its elevated position overlooking the Saronic Gulf. One of the few historic monuments on the island.
Zoodochos Pigi, the church that crowns Megalochori
We walked up the hill in Megalochori one hot midday. The sun was fierce and the cicadas were competing to see which of them could make the most noise. At the end of the cobbled street, the church of Zoodochos Pigi appeared, white and solemn against the blue sky.
Zoodochos Pigi means «Life-Giving Spring». It is a long name for a small church, but when you cross the threshold you understand that the name is deliberately bigger than the building. Built in the nineteenth century, it is the most important religious building on Agistri.
The outside is plain. Whitewashed walls, a blue dome and a stone bell tower. But the interior leaves you speechless. The iconostasis is dark wood, carved by hand, with gilded details that catch the candlelight. The icons are old, some from the nineteenth century, with the faces of saints looking back at you with a mysterious serenity.
The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, venerated here as «Zoodochos Pigi». Orthodox tradition tells of a miraculous spring that appeared in Constantinople through the Virgin’s intercession, healing the sick. That is why many Greek churches carry this name.
Next to the church there is a small square with benches in the shade of a centuries-old tree. From here the views over the Saronic Gulf are magnificent. To the right you can see the islet of Aponissos. In the distance, the mountains of the Peloponnese. The sea shines like a sheet of silver.
If you come on a Sunday morning you will catch the service. The people of Megalochori put on their best clothes. The candles light up the iconostasis. Byzantine chant echoes between the stone walls. Even if you are not religious, the atmosphere gets to you. It is one of those moments that make travelling worth it.
Entry is free. You are asked to dress respectfully: shoulders and knees covered. On the way out you can light a candle. And if you are lucky, one of the village grandmothers will hand you a piece of blessed bread. Take it. It tastes of Greece.