Megalochori (Milos)

Megalochori, the real Greece

Megalochori means “big village”. And yet it is a tiny one. But when you walk its streets you understand the name: this is where the soul of Agistri lives.

We rode there from Skala along the coast road. It is barely two kilometres through pine woods, with coves appearing on your right. Megalochori, also called Myloi, spreads across a gentle slope facing north-west. Its little harbour takes a few hydrofoils from Piraeus, but it is quieter than Skala. There is no seafront promenade lined with souvenir shops here. There are fishing boats, nets drying in the sun, and a silence broken only by the waves against the quay.

The streets of Megalochori are a lovely maze. Narrow stone alleys, whitewashed houses with blue shutters, pots of geraniums on the steps. Cats stretch out lazily in the sun. Elderly women sweep their doorsteps and greet you with a warm “kalimera”. This is not a set built for tourists. It is real life.

At the top of the village stands the nineteenth-century church of Zoodochos Pigi. Inside it holds a carved wooden iconostasis worth the visit. The square next to the church is a good place to sit in the shade and watch life go by. Beside it, the old windmill is a reminder of the days when Agistri lived off farming.

Next to the windmill is the Megalochori Cultural Centre. A small folk museum showing archaeological finds from the island, traditional costumes and everyday objects. Entry is free, and the woman who looks after it will happily tell you the story behind every piece. Ask her about the remains of ancient Kekrifalia. She will explain that this island has been inhabited since at least the fifth century BC.

Do not leave Megalochori without stopping at the bakery. It is next to the main road, and in the mornings they bring out spanakopita and bougatsa that smell glorious. Buy a couple, sit down at the harbour for breakfast and be grateful you chose Agistri instead of Mykonos.