Monastiri Beach

Plenty of people consider Monastiri the best beach on Poros, and we largely agree. It is not the biggest or the most organised, but it has what almost nothing else on this island has: real natural shade, clear water and a calm atmosphere you notice the moment you step off the bus.

It is on the east coast of Kalavria, four kilometres from town, right below the Zoodochos Pigi monastery, from which it takes its name. Monastiri means exactly that, monastery.

What it is like

Around two hundred metres of shoreline of smooth pebbles and fine gravel, with the pine wood coming down the slope until it almost touches the water. That strip of pines is Monastiri’s great asset: you can put your towel in the shade without paying anything, a rare thing in the Saronic in August.

The water is among the cleanest on the island. Being the east coast and having a stone rather than sandy bottom, it does not cloud up and you can see the bottom several metres down. For snorkelling it is very good, especially towards the rocky ends of the cove.

The entry to the water is on a moderate slope, no surprises. The bottom drops away at a comfortable rate.

Pain points

The pebbles. There is no sand here. They are smooth stones, pleasant if you have a mat or an airbed, uncomfortable if you were expecting to lie straight down on a towel. And barefoot, on the hot stones at midday, it is a short but real ordeal. Water shoes or flip-flops right up to the water’s edge.

The services are basic. There are sunbeds and one or two beach bars in high season, but do not expect a sit-down restaurant. Bring water, especially if you come outside July and August, when there may be nothing open.

The access. The bus drops you at the top, next to the monastery, and you have to walk five minutes down a sloping path. The way back is uphill. It is not hard, but with a pushchair or reduced mobility it is a problem.

How busy it gets. It is the favourite beach of quite a few locals, so on an August weekend it fills up. Even so, it is still noticeably quieter than Askeli or Love Bay.

Getting there

By bus from Iroon square in Poros town, about ten minutes and 3 euros, with departures every half hour from May to October. It is the last stop on the eastern line.

By scooter or bike it is fifteen and twenty-five minutes respectively along the southern coast road. There is a small car park at the top that fills up early.

By water taxi from the port it is also possible, negotiating on the quay, although it is the most expensive option for this particular beach.

The half-day plan

Monastiri is made to be combined with the monastery. You go up to Zoodochos Pigi first thing in the morning, when it is open and there are few people (note that it closes at midday), see the baroque iconostasis, have a Greek coffee at the cafe next door and then walk down to the beach to spend the rest of the morning.

If you have the energy left, the forty-five-minute path that climbs to the sanctuary of Poseidon through the pines starts from the monastery. Doing that walk and then coming down for a swim here is, for us, the best full day Poros has to offer.

When to come

In the morning, between nine and one, when the shade of the pines falls over the central part of the beach and the water is at its stillest.

June and September are the ideal months: warm water, everything open and none of August’s crowds. In May the water is still cool but the beach is practically yours.