Spilia Cove

Spilia (which means “cave” in Greek) is not a beach in the conventional sense: there is no sand, no pebbles, no cove. What there is instead is a set of concrete platforms laid over the rocks that drop down to the water just below the cannon bastions of Hydra harbour, with iron ladders for getting in and out of the sea. It is the town swimming spot par excellence, the place where Hydriots have always swum, and where visitors go too when they want a quick dip without walking 25 minutes to Vlychos.

Getting there is very easy. From the harbour quay you walk west along the seafront, past the café terraces, and at the end you come to the old bronze cannons of the defensive bastion. Just to the right of the cannons a few cobbled steps drop down to the Spilia platforms: five minutes on foot from the quay, no more. The cove is dominated by two establishments: the Spilia Beach Bar (sometimes known simply as “Spilia”) and Hydronetta, about a hundred metres further along. Both rent sunbeds for around 10-15 euros, serve cocktails, salads and snacks right on the rock, and have a clientele that mixes tourists with older Hydriots who have been swimming there for twenty years.

What makes Spilia special is the depth of the water. There is no shallow zone: you take one step off the platform or the ladder and you already have 3 or 4 metres beneath you. That makes it a great spot for diving in off rocks 2 or 3 metres high (the locals jump, the tourists watch), but strongly inadvisable for small children or weak swimmers: there is no margin for error. The water, right at the mouth of the harbour, is surprisingly clean and clear because the current renews it constantly. Fish gather along the rocks and it is common to see small sea bream and saddled bream if you bring a mask.

On the honest pain points: there is no natural shade, only the awnings of the bars. If you do not rent a sunbed you will be out in the sun on hot concrete, which is not a real option at midday in July and August. There are no showers or proper changing rooms: you change behind a towel like on any improvised Greek beach, and to rinse off the salt you have to ask at the bar or wait until you are back at the hotel. The iron ladders can be rusty and slippery; take care getting out of the water. And, paradoxically, being so close to the harbour, on days with heavy boat traffic there can be traces of oil or diesel floating about: if you see a slick on the surface, better not get in.

When do people come to Spilia? The star hour is sunset. The westward orientation means the sun goes down directly in front of you, over the Peloponnese, and the terraces fill with people drinking white wine in the last of the golden light. It is probably the best free sunset on Hydra (not counting the ones you get on the climb up to the monastery of Profitis Ilias). For a quiet swim, come first thing in the morning (before 10) or mid afternoon (16:00 to 18:00). For partying and cocktails, after 19:00. Either way, bring rubber soled footwear: the path between the cannons and the platforms is polished stone and, when wet, it turns into a slide.