Hike to the Profitis Ilias monastery and Mount Eros
Walking route from the port to the 18th-century monastery high on Mount Eros (590 m). Two hours up, views over the whole of Hydra, the Peloponnese and neighbouring islands. Free.
The walk up to the Profitis Ilias monastery is the classic activity that costs nothing and that any reasonably active traveller can do on Hydra. You do not need a guide, you do not need to book anything, there is no entrance fee: just sensible trainers, water, a hat and a willingness to sweat for a couple of hours. In exchange you get one of the best panoramic views of the Saronic Gulf and a visit to a working 18th-century monastery where the monks offer you water and traditional sweets.
The path starts at the top of the town, at the end of Miaouli street (the one that climbs perpendicular to the quay from the admiral’s monument). The tarmac runs out at a discreet sign reading “Profitis Ilias” in Greek and English, and from there the route turns into cobbled steps and a mule track. Total distance is around 3.5 kilometres one way, with about 500 metres of cumulative ascent. Realistic timing: 2 hours up (with three or four stops to catch your breath and enjoy the view) and an hour and a half down. If you are in very good shape you can do it faster; if you find it hard, climb slowly, there is no rush.
What you will experience, step by step: the first 20 minutes are the hardest, because you leave the town zigzagging through stepped alleyways; you pass the last inhabited house and from there the path starts opening out onto the bare mountain. After 30 to 40 minutes you reach an area of old olive trees and gorse where the gradient eases slightly. Around 60 to 75 minutes you cross a saddle between two ridges with a magnificent view east and west at the same time. And in the last half hour the path draws close to the monastery complex: first you see the white bell tower peeking through the pines, then the stone wall and the wrought-iron gate appear. If you are lucky and the monk on duty opens up, you get into an inner courtyard with its central church, a small garden and a terrace with the view you have very nearly earned. There is also a neighbouring convent (Agia Efpraxia), 10 minutes away on foot: smaller, also lovely, with slightly more restricted opening hours.
On the critical pain points: the midday heat in July and August is brutal and most of the path has no shade. Set off before 7:00 or after 17:00, do not do the climb between 11:00 and 16:00. Carry 1.5 to 2 litres of water per person, because there are no springs and no shop anywhere along the route. Closed shoes with rubber soles, not sandals or flip-flops: the polished cobbles are slippery. Dress code for entering the monastery: arms and knees covered (the monks lend wraps if you turn up in shorts, but it is more comfortable to come prepared). If you are travelling with children under 10, assume they probably will not make it to the top; better that they do half the route or stay at a beach. And finally a safety note: the path is well marked as far as the monastery, but if you decide to carry on to the summit of Mount Eros (588 m, another 30 to 45 minutes), the markings are less clear and it is worth having the route downloaded on a hiking app (Komoot, AllTrails and Wikiloc all have versions of it) so you do not get lost. To round off the day, head down for octopus and Greek salad at Kaminia or Vlychos and have a long swim: you will have earned it.