Portes Beach

Portes, the southern cove most people never see

Portes is the least visited corner of the Aegina coast, at the far south-eastern end of the island, 18 km from the port. It takes its name from a rock formation that looks like a pair of natural doors at the water’s edge. It is a cove of about 180 metres with small pebbles mixed with sand, a family taverna right on the beach, open views over the Aegean and, above all, the feeling of being far away that Agia Marina and Marathonas simply do not have. If your list of priorities reads “clear water + few people + grilled fish”, Portes is where you should be heading.

What makes this cove different from the rest

The water here is demonstrably clearer than at any other beach on Aegina. The reason is geographical: Portes faces the channel between Aegina and Methana, the seabed is pale rock with little loose soil, and there is very little seaweed. Snorkelling visibility easily passes 5 to 7 metres, which in the Saronic is a lot. There are sea urchins on the rocks at either side, plenty of damselfish and salema, and the odd sea bream if you are patient.

The beach is a mix of fine pebbles and coarse sand, which makes it slightly uncomfortable to walk on barefoot but very clean (no sand sticking to you). You walk straight into the water and the bottom drops away quickly: it is over your head within about 5 metres. Good for adult swimmers, average for small children because of the slope and the pebbles underfoot.

Pain points (and what makes it worth it)

• Shade: very little on the beach itself. The tavernas at the edge of the cove will rent you a sunlounger with a parasol for the price of an order (check before you lie down).
• A car is more or less essential: the bus does not come out here on regular routes. You can walk the 8 km from Anitseo, but that is not the usual plan.
• Facilities: limited to the two tavernas (Aristides and Tholos are the best known), with no inflatable shops or beach bars in the Agia Marina style.
• Crowds: very low most of the time, moderate to high on August Sundays, when Athenians with boats anchor offshore and come in by dinghy.
• Water: spotless. No Blue Flag, but cleaner than plenty of beaches that have one.
• Wind: sheltered from the northerly meltemi by the hills inland, exposed to an easterly.
• Food: this is where Portes shines. The family tavernas cook the day’s catch (caught by the local boats, not bought in from a supermarket), grilled octopus, red prawns, salad with Aegina pistachios. Two people can eat and drink for 35 to 50 euros, value for money you will not find down at the port.

Getting there (and why it takes some effort)

• Car or scooter: the only sensible option. 18 km from Aegina town on a surfaced road that narrows for the last 3 km. Drive it calmly, there is no traffic. Follow the signs for “Portes” from Anitseo. Free parking next to the Aristides taverna.
• Bus: there is a reduced summer service (one departure in the morning, back in the middle of the afternoon), but it is not reliable. Confirm the times the day before at the tourist office.
• On foot: possible from Anitseo (3 km) if you have decent shoes and a couple of hours. The path has no shade.
• Taxi: 30€ one way from the port, 50€ return with the driver waiting.

The full day at Portes

Our recommended plan for a Saturday or Sunday: leave the port by car at 11 in the morning, stop at a pistachio farm in Kypseli (between Aegina town and Anitseo, several of them are signposted “pistachio farm visit”), reach Portes around 12:30, a long swim plus snorkelling, a fish lunch at the taverna around 14:30, a nap on your towel, then back to the port at sunset along the eastern side of the island (the scenic road home via Agia Marina).

If you pair it with a morning visit to the Temple of Aphaia (12 km from Portes across the interior), you have a full day: archaeology in the morning, an unspoilt cove in the afternoon, grilled fish in the late afternoon. It is the plan we recommend to anyone who has a car and more than one day on the island. For something more urban and easier to reach, go for Agia Marina or Marathonas instead.